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'THE PROMISE': Armenian Genocide Movie
Post 'THE PROMISE': Armenian Genocide Movie
by Steve Tcherkezian on Thursday, 13.April 2017 05:47 AM

Opens April 21st in North America. Please watch this movie as an act of conferring a benefit; the doing of good; it means a lot to me.

Up-to date, Turkey denies it ever happened. The world and historians know the fact of the barbaric massacre of 1,500.000.00 million Armenians.

http://www.history.com/topics/armenian-genocide
https://www.liveleak.com/view?i=596_1402427008

Steve Tcherkezian


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Questions or concerns? $50.00USD/per posting
Post Questions or concerns? $50.00USD/per posting
by Steve Tcherkezian on Tuesday, 31.January 2017 07:56 AM

Send e-Transfer with a "Secret Password" for deposit purposes to: steve@VerticalsInHair.com


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Re: How does keratin treatment act as a neutralizer?
Post Re: How does keratin treatment act as a neutralizer?
by Steve Tcherkezian on Tuesday, 24.January 2017 10:02 PM

Well, I had the same exact issue as well too with "Post a reply". When that happens, I switch from Explorer to Firefox or to Google Chrome, and that seems to work for me.

Once again the answer is a big YES - it is absolutely okay to use a neutralizer after Xtenso/TR, wash the hair and THEN apply the keratin treatment followed by flat ironing. And that is exactly what I do.


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Re: How does keratin treatment act as a neutralizer?
Post Re: How does keratin treatment act as a neutralizer?
by advik on Tuesday, 24.January 2017 06:40 PM

Quote by Steve Tcherkezian:First of all - this so called “”Hybrid Japanese Hair Straightening and Brazilian/Keratin Treatment” has been in use for over 10 years, so it is not a new technology.

Second - the Brazilian Keratin Treatment does not replace the “Neutralizer” or act as a neutralizer. In fact, you can do Japanese Hair Straightening without using the “Neutralizer”. This is known as ‘Atmospheric oxidation”

For example, after ironing the hair section by section, and without applying the neutralizer is not a problem; the oxygen in the atmosphere will neutralize the perm/TR/Japanese Hair Straightening and reform the cystine/disulfide bonds. This takes 3 days, but you still need to ask the client not shampoo, sweat or wet her hair for 3 days. Keep in mind also that the neutralizing lotion acts as odor remover. So the best rule to follow is to always follow the manufactures direction. Meaning; best to use the neutralizing lotion.

Otherwise, here is why. Each time this woman shampoos her hair, her hair is going to have a nasty, skunk-like (thioglycolate) odor, and the odor persists. So even though all looks good in the video, and both, the client and stylist were pleased, nevertheless, I can assure you she must have brought this nasty odor to this stylist's attention.

The answer to your last question is a "yes"; it is perfectly fine not to rinse the Keratin Treatment and wait 3 days before shampooing the hair.


I'm new here so trying to figure out how to work this forum, I clicked on ''Post a reply'' and nothing was happening so i had to select ''Quote''. Anyway, Thanks a lot for your reply Steve. I'm from India so the whole Hybrid thing is kinda new here and most salons don't even offer this option. My other question is that Would it be okay to use a neutralizer after Xtenso/TR, wash the hair and THEN apply the keratin treatment followed by flat ironing?


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Re: How does keratin treatment act as a neutralizer?
Post Re: How does keratin treatment act as a neutralizer?
by Steve Tcherkezian on Tuesday, 24.January 2017 03:15 PM

First of all - this so called “”Hybrid Japanese Hair Straightening and Brazilian/Keratin Treatment” has been in use for over 10 years, so it is not a new technology.

Second - the Brazilian Keratin Treatment does not replace the “Neutralizer” or act as a neutralizer. In fact, you can do Japanese Hair Straightening without using the “Neutralizer”. This is known as ‘Atmospheric oxidation”

For example, after ironing the hair section by section, and without applying the neutralizer is not a problem; the oxygen in the atmosphere will neutralize the perm/TR/Japanese Hair Straightening and reform the cystine/disulfide bonds. This takes 3 days, but you still need to ask the client not shampoo, sweat or wet her hair for 3 days. Keep in mind also that the neutralizing lotion acts as odor remover. So the best rule to follow is to always follow the manufactures direction. Meaning; best to use the neutralizing lotion.

Otherwise, here is why. Each time this woman shampoos her hair, her hair is going to have a nasty, skunk-like (thioglycolate) odor, and the odor persists. So even though all looks good in the video, and both, the client and stylist were pleased, nevertheless, I can assure you she must have brought this nasty odor to this stylist's attention.

The answer to your last question is a "yes"; it is perfectly fine not to rinse the Keratin Treatment and wait 3 days before shampooing the hair.


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How does keratin treatment act as a neutralizer?
Post How does keratin treatment act as a neutralizer?
by advik on Monday, 23.January 2017 04:23 PM

So I came across this technique which is called a Hybrid of Japanese straightening and Keratin treatment. In this video he skips the ''Neutralizer'' part after the straightening cream and directly washes the hair applies the keratin treatment. I want to know how the keratin can seal the hair and work as a neutralizer. can you explain this to me? Also, would it be okay to not wash off the keratin treatment after flat ironing and leave it like that for 3 days and then wash? Link to the hybrid video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYqy1hJkQ18


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Re: X-Tenso and hair colouring
Post Re: X-Tenso and hair colouring
by Steve Tcherkezian on Monday, 25.July 2016 05:35 PM

Hi Chiara,

Sorry, but I don't offer advice for people who are doing these processes at home.

LOOK, we stylists have enough problems doing chemical hair straightening, let alone doing it at home.

with regards to coloring the hair the same day, after a chemical hair straightening service - It is done right after the neutralizing lotion is rinsed.


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X-Tenso and hair colouring
Post X-Tenso and hair colouring
by araknex on Sunday, 24.July 2016 03:12 PM

Hi Steve and hi all!

My name's Chiara, I'm from Italy. First time here, I finally got on this forum after doin a lot of searching. Here is my question/problem:

I've got frizzy hair, in the last years I've tried everything by the hairdresser, from x-tenso to goldwell lissage to brasilian keratin. I had to give up since the costs were high so I started doing them at home. My first experience was with a Matrix product (or Redken, I don't remember right now) and the results were good, even if I have to admit I was a bit scared before Very Happy

Now I've ordered on-line the X-Tenso kit for sensitized hair + the oreal presifon advance protector to apply before. I am finding some not very detalied step by step instructions on-line so I hope there will be instructions on the product boxes.

My question: when, some years ago, I went to the hairdresser for X-Tenso, I remember that my hair colour (I have coloured hair, jet black, also to cover white hair) faded a lot, leaving my haid in a weird greysh/silver tone. So my hairdresser, in the middle of the X-Tenso procedure, dyed my hair with a natural hair dye, and everything went ok. The same thing happened with the Goldwell lissage, hair colour faded, and so she dyed my hair during the procedure.

I've now bought a natural hair colour, ammonia-free, to use during the procedure and the question is: at which moment of the procedure I can put the dye on? I don't remember when the hairdressers did it. There's the application, then rinse, then the application of the fixing lotion, the iron etc......which is the step in which i can put the dye on? Or I have to do it afterwards, in the end? But in this case, I'd have to wash my hair immediately and I know i cannot do it for 3 days. I'd use the "hard procedure", brazilian straightening, with iron.

Really thanks a lot! another thing: last week I used a choco keratin treatment, very very cheap, always at home, it did nothing to straight my hair. I had not to wash them for 72 hours but I barely waited 24 hours because I felt my hair heavy and "bad", dirty, like plastic. Is it safe to do x-tenso after a week from when i did that? Really thanks. I'm doing the "do it yourself" because my usual hairdresser wants about 250 euros (more or less 230 dollars) for the treatment only (then there is the cost of the hair dye etc...) which is too much for my pockets. Thanks again Very Happy Chiara


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Re: X-tenso during pregnancy?
Post Re: X-tenso during pregnancy?
by Steve Tcherkezian on Monday, 02.May 2016 03:05 AM

Glad to be of some help, and good luck!


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Re: X-tenso during pregnancy?
Post Re: X-tenso during pregnancy?
by aatika on Monday, 02.May 2016 12:05 AM

I cant think of anyone else answering my query so precisely. U have explained the chemistry very well.
Although my stylist told me that kerastraight is safe during pregnancy but i think its better to be safe than sorry.
I just wanted to be free from the hassle of managing my difficult hair post delivery.
So i would opt for waiting till the last trimester nd getting extenso done. I hope it would give me the desired result as it would be the third time i will be chemically treating my hair.
Wish i could fly to toronto and visit ur salon ;)
thanx a ton for such a detailed and quick response.


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Re: X-tenso during pregnancy?
Post Re: X-tenso during pregnancy?
by Steve Tcherkezian on Sunday, 01.May 2016 02:34 PM

First let’s talk about pregnancy. Typically, pregnant women's hormones fluctuate quite a bit during pregnancy and really don't normalize until after nursing is completed. Because hormones can cause some clients' hair to be very resistant to chemicals, the stylist must have a clear knowledge and pay special attention. End result, in the hands of a knowledgeable stylist, the results will be fine

Another thing that most pregnant women are not aware of; normally the hair sheds quite a bit after birth and sometimes after nursing. It's generally assumed that the hair does not shed as much during the pregnancy, therefore getting a little thicker. Post partum, the hair returns to its normal thickness, basically shedding off all the hair that didn't get shed in 9+ months. So if you straighten your hair, and then you start shedding a lot of hair, I wouldn't worry. I wouldn't think it was the chemical straightener at this point, but the natural shedding due to hormone balancing.

Regardless of what your stylist may say, Keratin Treatment contain formaldehyde, formalin or methylene glycol. I do not recommended doing Keratin Treatment during pregnancy. My advice is to go with X-Tenso.

If you decide to do X-Tenso, I recommend you wait 4 days instead of 2 or 3 days before wetting/shampooing your hair. Here is why. There are two different types of protein within the cortex of the hair. They are called either low sulphur proteins or high sulphur proteins. Low sulphur proteins are spring-like in shape and account for nearly 60% of the cortical protein. High sulphur proteins account for nearly 40% of the cortex. They can be thought of as “glue” which locks the “springs” in place. When hair is X-Tenso’d, the “glue” is softened and the springs move to a straightened form. The glue is then “hardened” to lock the springs into their new "straight" position. The “glue like” protein needs time to harden. Now during pregnancy, the ratio proportion of glue-like and coil-like may change. Therefore, it is best to wait 4 days before shampooing the hair. Thus, explaining why you should not wet or shampoo the hair for 4 days after the X-Tenso or CHI straightening service.


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X-tenso during pregnancy?
Post X-tenso during pregnancy?
by aatika on Sunday, 01.May 2016 06:59 AM

Hello
I am very glad i came across your forum. Your professional experience speaks out and i wish i had visited ur website earlier in the past. Reading your answers to many of the problems posted by different people have cleared most of my doubts and queries.
I am from Pakistan and have undergone X-tenso and chi transformation over the past two years, respectively.
I have been having hairfall on and off before and after my first pregnancy but after chi i had the worst kind of hairfall.
I have very rough and frizzy hair with strong waves. My question to u is should i give break to my hair and go for a keratin treatment just to smoothen my hair for the time being or should i go for extenso during my last trimester of 2nd pregnancy? which one would be a safer and better option in ur opinion?
are these treatments safe during pregnancy?


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Re: Post Xtenso - Fried Hair Patch
Post Re: Post Xtenso - Fried Hair Patch
by Steve Tcherkezian on Friday, 22.April 2016 06:39 PM

I recommend Redken's Extreme Shampoo, Allsoft Conditioner and Extreme Plus Treatment. This is what I recommend to the majorities of my clients with chemically treated hair.


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Re: Post Xtenso - Fried Hair Patch
Post Re: Post Xtenso - Fried Hair Patch
by Sanazeh on Friday, 22.April 2016 07:14 AM

Thank you for the prompt response! Guess I just need to live with it Sad

PS: I do not like the overall result of Loreal Liss shampoo. Is there anything else I can use alternatively?


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Re: Post Xtenso - Fried Hair Patch
Post Re: Post Xtenso - Fried Hair Patch
by Steve Tcherkezian on Friday, 22.April 2016 06:52 AM

Hi Sana

It’s not the sweating that is causing the issue.

There are two reasons which could be the culprit causing the hair near the nape area feel “extremely dry and rough”.

1) First, the majorities of stylists do not take the time to rinse the chemical (thioglycolate) thoroughly, especially, the nape section of head of hair (it is severe and excessive demand; very tiring and big strain on back of the stylist. Nevertheless, it must be done the correct way). Moreover, they do not change the towel with a fresh clean towel after initially rinsing the chemical from the hair. That is to say, there may still be traces of the chemical (thio) left on this section; hence causing the issues you are experiencing. To visualize what I am saying: When you lie back on the shampoo sink, inevitably the chemical is going to be transferred onto the towel near the nape area. If the stylist doesn’t change the towel and rinse thoroughly one more time, then as a result, you are going to have problems. Simple, isn’t it? BTW, L’Oreal Liss Shampoo and Masque is not going to fix it for you.

2) the neutralizing (chemical) lotion was not thoroughly rinsed from the nape section of head of hair, and if no towel changing with fresh clean towel; then it is as destructive to the hair as the scenario I described above.

3) The nape area is the most resistant section of head of hair, which means, it takes longer time to process, which also means, it may have been under-processed. That said, and according to your description, my experience tells me that your issue is #1, icluding #2 described above. That is to say, there is nothing you can do to fix this (extremely dry, rough) problem. You should leave it alone.


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Post Xtenso - Fried Hair Patch
Post Post Xtenso - Fried Hair Patch
by Sanazeh on Friday, 22.April 2016 03:05 AM

Hi Steve,

I have seen you genuinely helping so many people with hair disasters! I recently got my Loreal Xtenso done from a Salon here in Karachi, Pakistan. This was my 5th or 6th time but after a gap of 3 years from my last one.

So while I am okay with the result, I do feel there is one patch in my hair which feels extremely dry & rough. I cant brush through it easily like all my other hair. It is the hair near my nape area, starting from the back of my neck all the way till the ends. Rest of the hair are soft and shiny so far at least. So my question is, why would one patch of hair behave like this? I did have some sweat in my hair during the 3 day weight period, could that be the cause? Can anything done about it? Though its hidden under my hair but I can feel it and just cannot stop thinking about it Sad. It has been a week since my xtenso, should I go back to the person who did it? Or is it going to be a waste of time & effort. From what I read on your post, usually redoing your hair causes further damage so I am not sure what should I do? Just leave it or can this be fixed somehow?

I have been advised to use Loreal Liss Ultime Shampoo & Masks and I have been doing that.

Thanks,
Sana


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LOOK - General info - Japanese & Keratin Hair Straightening
Post LOOK - General info - Japanese & Keratin Hair Straightening
by Steve Tcherkezian on Wednesday, 20.January 2016 05:05 PM

X-asperated by Frizzy, Curly, Wavy, or Unruly Hair?

A DAILY CONSTRAINT:

• Styling takes time
• Difficult to manage
• Too much volume
• Your hair appears sensitized and dull
… back to frizzy hair even after a smooth brushing.

WHEN CONFRONTED WITH THIS PROBLEM, WOMEN AND MEN WANT:

• To be able to style their hair more easily and quickly
• To reduce volume and relax curls
• Healthy, supple, shiny texture
• Lasting hold

THE SOLUTION: We have X-actly what you need!

Simply Smooth - Tame unruly texture for a smooth, easy-to-style look. The result is sleek, soft, frizz-free and controllable hair that stays smooth all day, every day, with minimal styling effort. Japanese Hair Straightening/TR can create wonderful effects. And it is a tribute to the skill of stylists and technicians that so many results are successful; despite all the complexity of the chemistry and science of Straightening.

"We are what we repeatedly do. Therefore excellence is not an action but a habit".
Aristotle - Greek philosopher.



Hi, my name is Steve Tcherkezian. I am a trained & highly qualified, highly skilled Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning and Brazilian Keratin Hair Straightening specialist in Toronto (GTA).

I have been doing Japanese Hair Straightening since 1999, Brazilian Keratin Treatment since 2005, and other conventional hair straightening for over 40 years. I am also a Trichoanalyst. Trichoanalysis is the scientific study of hair which allows a better understanding of the physical and microscopic properties of the hair.

Consultation - Is your stylist taking representative samples? Taking hair tests is extremely important in the overall results, and for all results to be valid, the hair test must be representative. Tests should never be taken from an area which will be cut or trimmed, no matter how damaged the hair may be. In such a case, the TR/BKT stylist would be analyzing damage that no longer remains a problem to the overall condition of your hair, thus receiving useless results.

Feature and Benefit of Japanese Hair Straightening - Basically the Japanese Hair Straightening/TR technology permanently straightens the hair and makes it soft, frizz-free and easy to style at-home. Of course new growth is new hair, so a touch-up is required once every 5 to 10 months; depending on the curl pattern your hair.

Japanese Hair Straightening/TR involves using chemical solutions… thioglycolate, oxidizers to change the inner shape (disulfide/cystine bonds) of the hair. Therefore, like any other perm, the strength must be appropriate to the hair condition. Clients with highlight/bleach treated hair or 20% highlights, or had their hair coloured with 30 volume peroxide are not a good candidate for Japanese Hair Straightening.

Feature and Benefit of Brazilian Keratin Treatment/BKT - Unlike the Japanese Hair Straightening, the Keratin Hair Straightening can be done on highlight/bleach treated hair. The Brazilian Keratin is designed for people who have curly or frizzy hair but dream of smooth, frizz-free locks. The Brazilian Keratin straightening is the perfect solution for people with curly, frizzy or unruly hair. It is a temporary solution that will last on your hair between three to four months. The Brazilian Keratin Treatment is the latest trend in hair straightening.

In Summary - Unqualified stylists in Japanese TR and Keratin Hair Straightening will eventually cause irreversible damage to the hair and hair follicle. A qualified and very experienced stylist in Brazilian Keratin Hair Straightening and Japanese Hair Straightening/TR will deliver incredibly beautiful, silky, straight, frizz-free hair results.

So you say to yourself, "Where do I go from here?" When people return to the same stylist continuously, you know the stylist has done such a fantastic job. Simple isn’t it?

Viewing healthy hair after Japanese
and Keratin Hair Straightening.
(Magnified 200,000.00 times under
polarized light).



Viewing cuticle and cortex damage:
Improper Japanese and Keratin Hair
Straightening techniques. (Magnified
200,000.00 times under polarized light)
Naked eye cannot see.



Here is some of my Art Work:

Before Japanese Straightening
After

Before Japanese Straightening
After

Before Keratin Straightening
After

Before Japanese Straightening
After

Steve Tcherkezian
Japanese & Brazilian Keratin Hair Straightening
(The Soft, Silky & Frizz-Free Hair Solution)
www.verticalsinhair.com
Contact Steve - Verticals in Hair
To contact Steve, you can either call or email him
Consultations by appointment only
Phone: (416) 669-9118
Email: steve@VerticalsInHair.com


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Re: Hair not straight after X-Tenso treatment
Post Re: Hair not straight after X-Tenso treatment
by Steve Tcherkezian on Wednesday, 13.January 2016 07:27 AM

As I said, pictures are of no help to determine the structural stability of your hair. If you decide you want to post it, I think it should be in a Jpeg format. Also, use the "Image" link above, which is located just under "Subject". If you are still having problems posting it, you can send it to my email address: steve@verticalsinhair.com


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Re: Hair not straight after X-Tenso treatment
Post Re: Hair not straight after X-Tenso treatment
by chunnu on Tuesday, 12.January 2016 11:48 AM

Steve if you have email id or something or some special process for the pictures to go because in the attachment given below I'm pissed I tried at least 10times but it is not going ???


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Re: Hair not straight after X-Tenso treatment
Post Re: Hair not straight after X-Tenso treatment
by Steve Tcherkezian on Tuesday, 12.January 2016 07:55 AM

Oh my, what a disaster! in addition to all the list of mistakes your stylist has done, now you’re telling me your hair was highlight treated before she did the Japanese Hair Straightening/X-Tenso? This is yet another BIG no. You cannot, and shouldn’t do this process on highlight treated hair. To begin with, the instruction leaflet that accompany the product clearly says “Do not use X-Tenso on bleached or highlight treated hair”.

Forget Amway; stay with L’Oreal or Redken products.

Coloring your hair back to black or any other hair color will cause more damage. The most common alkaline agent used in hair color products is ammonia. In addition to maintaining stability of the dye intermediates, ammonia swells the hair strand, which helps the dye molecules penetrate the cuticle and cortex layers. Ammonia also acts as a catalyst to activate the hydrogen peroxide, which causes the oxidative dye molecules to couple and form. Keep in mind the absence of ammonia, or its odor, does not necessarily indicate a lowered pH level in the hair color formulation.

Hydrogen peroxide in combination with alkali source will break some of the disulfide bonds of the internal disulfide bonds found in the cortex of the hair. Disulfide bonds hold together certain protein chains within the hair fiber, and they are responsible for hair’s stability and strength. In a typical hair color process, approximately 10% of existing disulfide bonds are destroyed. In a high lift color or decolorizing process, 15 – 20% may be permanently broken. The destruction of disulfide bonds leads to the production of new molecule called cysteic acid. Unlike disulfide bonds, cysteic acid is not a cross-linked between protein chains of the cortex, so it weakens the overall structure of the hair.

And yeah, about the “Ammonia-Free" thing - It’s important to realize that for good deposit of hair color some alkalinity must be employed to soften the hair fiber to allow for penetration of the dye molecule. To enable a claim of no ammonia, hair color manufacturers simply use monoethanolamine (MEA) or some other similar alkali in place of ammonia to soften the hair fiber. That is to say, Different chemical; Same crap. If you know what I mean.

Matrix Opti.smooth and X-Tenso are very similar. That is to say, in the hands of a qualified and knowledgeable stylist they both produce great results. They both use Cationic Auto-Control technology (also known as Dithioglycolate). The thermal straightener (Japanese Hair Straightening/X-Tenso) is designed to limit the bond breakage by having a lot of dithio in the formula. During the reduction phase, the hair is fragile. It is at this stage that the Auto-Control/dithioglycolate technology intervenes. the Auto-Control active regulates the reduction and stabilizes the hair fiber structure by creating temporary links between the keratin chains. This of course "looks" Hi-Tech, but regardless of this Hi-Tech formulation; in the wrong hands it can still cause many problems.

The only option you may have at this juncture is to go with the Keratin Hair Straightening (also known as Brazilian Keratin Treatment/Straightening). That said, 1) First you need to go to a stylist for consultation 2) Give him a list of all the mistakes the other stylist had made. 3) And find a stylist that has great ironing skills. To do the Keratin Hair Straightening we use the iron set at 450°F. 450°F is about 232°C. Most irons reach 200°, not 232°C (392°F). First of all, dry hair proteins denature at 235 - 250°C so as long as the hair is dry, you are below the denaturation temperature. Plus hair is a bad conductor of heat so that you don't reach these temperatures on the hair. It takes a lot of ironing on dry hair to see structure changes.

Now, wet or damp hair is another thing. The denaturation temperature of the helical proteins drops as the matrix proteins are swollen and disrupted by water. A hot iron is now at a higher temperature than the denaturation temperature. With a little mistake here and there, you will permanently damage the hair's structure. The hair will gradually be straighter but rather lifeless.

Sending me a picture of your hair? In the hair straightening industry, a picture doesn’t tell me the exact structural stability and strength of your hair.


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